NOW features PEP® making it the most efficient isolator on the market.ģ. Suitable for all types of 12V charging systemsĤ. Works will all types of batteries except LithiumĦ. Unique design provides simple installationġ. When the engine is running and the charging source raises the voltage of the start battery to 13.4 volts* (cut in threshold), the True Smart Battery Isolator (SBI) engages and connects the two batteries to charge simultaneously. True®- EZGO Heavy Duty TXT Battery cable set 4-gauge (48Volt).True® Amalgamated Yamaha G2,G8,G9 1985-94, 4-gauge Golf Cart battery cable set 36Volt models.True® Amalgamated Yamaha G19 Golf Cart 4-gauge battery cable set 48V.True® EZ GO Marathon Golf Cart Battery Cables.True® EZGO TXT 94-Up Medalist TXT Golf Cart Battery Cable Set (4 Gauge).
Smart battery isolator wiring Pc#
True® Amalgamated 4-Gauge 5 pc club Car DS 1995 & Up Battery cable Set U.S.A.Kawasaki Teryx Dual Battery Kit TERYX-SBI-CM.Kawasaki Teryx Dual Battery Kit TERYX-SBI-CK.True® Honda Talon Dual Battery Kit TALON-SBI-CM.True UTV-SBI-LCK Lithium Dual Battery Connecting Kit.True UTV-SBI-LCM Lithium Dual Battery Connect & Monitor Kit.So, I took the second wire (the one that went to the junction block) off the back of the alternator and ran it to the positive terminal on the main battery, and problem solved. So when I took the 1st wire off the positive terminal on the main battery and hooked it up to the designated “alternator” post on the isolator, the junction block on the firewall no longer had power (which meant the fuel pump relay had no power). One wire originally went to the positive terminal on the main battery, and the other went to a junction block on the firewall (which subsequently connects to the fuel pump relay and other things). I had 2 separate wires coming off the “batt” post on the back of the alternator. The auxiliary battery only powers the extra accessories like my winch, air compressor, trailer brake controller, and will power some other accessories that I plan to add in the future.Īnyway, I figured out my problem. And I think mine works very similar to yours.only the main battery provides power to the vehicle’s electrical system. But as I tried to describe in my previous post, my new isolator allows for the alternator to charge both batteries, but if one begins to die, it won’t draw the other battery down. had installed was really more like a junction block than a true isolator (and I may even be using the wrong term - isolator vs separator). I was trying to modify an existing dual battery setup that was installed by the previous owner, but make it work to suit my needs without redoing everything.
Unfortunately my setup is a little different (non-factory). I think I can do it, just need to find an appropriate relay that can handle that load and is triggered by the purple wire to the starter. I’ve been thinking about ways to tie them together with the original main battery positive cable to the starter from my parts rig. Downside: aux batt gives no assistance with starting and the factory positive cable on the aux is really small (8 or even 10 ga) so it’s obviously designed to support accessories only. Upside: simplicity and factory appearance and in my case, cheap. Without key in on position both batts are fully isolated. AFAIK, that ties all vehicle systems together EXCEPT starting circuit but including charging system. Relay is triggered with key in on position which then connects positive of aux batt to firewall mounted terminal block. All it is is a big relay mounted on DS fender well. The wiring on the factory setup is super simple.
Smart battery isolator wiring install#
I say style because i took all the parts and wiring from my ‘90 burb parts rig and my install may not be perfectly factory. So my ‘91 burb has a dual batt setup that is factory “style”.
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